Orange Marmalade

The pith of oranges (the white stuff under the peel) contains pectin, which makes things gel. But the recipe has a lot of water, so it must rely on the sugar for thickening, the way candy does. See When is It Done?" for an explanation of "the required consistency."

• 6 large oranges "(Good, firm oranges are best.)"
• 3 lemons
• 3 quarts water
• 6 pounds sugar

Slice the oranges and lemons very thin. Put in 3 quarts of water, soak overnight. Boil until skin is very tender, then add six pounds of granulated sugar and boil to the required consistency.

Rhubarb Marmalade

Aunt Averil's generation used a lot more sugar than I would. By way of comparison, here is my recipe for rhubarb marmalade. This makes about 2 pints. If you want more, don't double the recipe; make additional batches. More than 6 cups of rhubarb takes forever to gel.

• 4 cups chopped rhubarb
• 1/2 to 1 cup sugar (I've been using less over the years, and people still like the results)
• peel of one orange, with the pith

Mix the rhubarb and sugar in a large saucepan or soup kettle (maybe larger than you think you need, because the jam can easily boil over). Let it sit for at least an hour, preferably longer. This step pulls the juice from the rhubarb before you start cooking, so you don't need to add water.

Meanwhile, prepare the peel. Slice it very thin, or chop it into small squares. Cover it with water in a small pan and boil for 5 to 10 minutes. Drain and rinse. This removes the bitterness in the peel.

Sterilize the canning jars and lids. This will make about 2 pints of jam.

Stir the peel into the rhubarb. Very slowly bring to a boil, stirring frequently. If you use a candy thermometer, the mixture should reach 220°F.

I use the drop method, which I learned from my grandmother: Pour a little of the jam from the side of a clean metal spoon. A first, the last bit will fall in single drops. When the last bit falls in 2 drops, you have the soft gel stage, suitable for ice cream topping. When the last bit falls in a sheet, the gel will be suitable for jam.

Do not overcook the marmalade, it will thicken a little as it cools.

If you are not going to use the marmalade in the next few weeks, be sure to process it in a boiling water bath for 15 to 20 minutes.