Maraschino Cherries

Celtic dragon's head Who knew that American maraschino cherries are the lutefisk of the fruit world? My dad was a county agent, and I tend to trust the Extension Service, but not this time.

From what I could find online, the original Czech method preserves whole marasca cherries in cherry liqueur. In contrast, this mimeographed sheet from the Cooperative Extension Service of Oregon State University provides two methods: either brining in salt and alum or soaking with "chemical packets" (most likely sulfur dioxide and calcium carbonate). Both methods bleach the cherries. Then a second step uses food coloring and lemon juice to add back color and flavor.

In fairness, I should say, I don't know how old this recipe is. Oregon is a center of processed cherries. The OSU Extension Service website no longer includes the recipe, but there is advice for growers on the best cultivars for brining.

My advice? When you have fresh cherries, eat them as is or make a pie, and buy commercial maraschino cherries when you want them. But now that I've seen the recipe, I'm going to think twice about how much I want them.

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